Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. But, tucked near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.
The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family utterly shocked.
“I’m totally astonished,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.
It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.
The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.
A tech journalist and gadget reviewer with over a decade of experience, specializing in consumer electronics and innovation trends.